Friday, June 15, 2012

Photos: From Dublin to Paro

This should ideally been my first post. Below are the photos of my journey from Dublin to Paro, via Dubai and Bangkok.

A traveller hurries to his flight. I bought this camera to document my time in Bhutan. This was the first photo I took.



Waiting at Dubai International airport for 8 hours, I eventually boarded a plane like this one.



Finally on my Druk Air Flight. I left Ireland on Tuesday morning at 9am and arrive at my Bhutanese home at 8.30am on Thursday Morning.




As the plane descends below the clouds, I get my first sight of Bhutan.




Finally about to land!





My first weekend. Through the prayer flags, you can see the outskirts to the south of Thimphu.  



Saturday, June 9, 2012

Home in a foreign land

Yesterday (Saturday 9th of June) I went for a walk up one of the mountains. The prayer flags were beautiful.


There are stray dogs everywhere, lying exhausted across the roads, defeat in their bloodshot eyes. With composition akin to a lazy cow. Not like the dogs I know back home.

Upon arrival, I am immediately struck by how utterly different life in Bhutan is to my experiences in the West. The taxi drivers invite you to dinner with their family. The burgers are put on display in plastic wrappers, pre-cooked. The air is purer than a sea breeze (and yet its thinness leaves you gasping for breath). The mountains are lined with colorful prayer flags. Just look at the buildings.

And yet it is essentially the same. The procedures of human interaction. The untidiness of a city under construction. The greyness of the sky looking down upon the valley. And with modernization, the last Shangri-La seems at times to be slowly fading away.

In Bhutan however, the mother of the genius peculiarity of Gross National Happiness, balance pervades all aspects of the development agenda. Indeed, there is little desire amongst government officials for creative destruction. The modern endeavors to complement rather than replace the past.

On my second day in Bhutan, I am invited to observe the opening meeting of the National Assembly’s Session. The recently instituted seat of democracy, the parliamentary chamber elegantly marries the routines of political liberalism with monarchical customs and the ancient rituals of the country’s Buddhist religion. The antediluvian tapestries and faint smell of incense fit comfortably by the flat screen televisions built into the walls of the assembly and the Gohs and Kiras (The Bhutanese national dress) look at ease beside suits and dresses.

Work begins on Monday, when I will get a chance to begin examining the theory and practice of GNH in detail. I wonder will it be, as I hope, a replicable model for development beyond the Himalayas.




A sign that Bhutan is entering an economic heyday, this gigantic Buddha has been constructed on the mountainside overlooking Thimphu, the capital.

Wednesday, May 9, 2012

A Sort of Homecoming


Dia Dhuit agus fáilte roimh go léir!


My name is Jamie Walsh. I am an Irish graduate student at Harvard University studying public policy. This summer, I will be working as a short-term consultant for the National Planning Commission (GNHC) of the Royal Government of Bhutan. 

The GNHC is the central coordinating body of the government that engages in the country's mid to long-term planning. It also controls budget allocations and approves priorities for all ministries and agencies in the government. I will be focusing on building the capacity and deliberative processes of local governance institutions with an emphasis on the political empowerment of women in rural communities.

Me in Bhutanese dress, 1990


A long road home


Twenty three years have passed since I last set foot in Bhutan, the remote Himalayan Kingdom nestled between China and India. Since then, the magical beauty of the Land of the Thunder Dragon has run as a constant thread of imagination through my childhood. 


Me and my Mom in Bhutan, Summer 1989

Early memories of sitting with my mother, looking through carefully crafted photo albums of my parents' time in Bhutan, seemed to bring me not only to a faraway land, but somewhere situated in a distant time. The buildings, the clothes, the mountains, the dances, the places of worship, the music, the everyday practices all stood in stark contrast to my experiences growing up in Ireland. 


My parents with the Jesuit Priest Father Mackey who married them during their time in Bhutan


Before I was born, my parents spent a number of years working in educational development in Bhutan. The years they spent there were undoubtedly formative. They were married there. They had the opportunity to take on important projects there. They made long lasting friendships there. When I think of Bhutan, I think of my family. Its very idea has come to be synonymous with my parents' values. Through them, it has made me who I am today. And yet, apart from a six week stint as a baby, I have never been there.

This summer, thanks to the lovely people at the Women and Public Policy Program and the generosity of the funders of the Cultural Bridge Fellowship, after the long journey of growing up, I will be making a homecoming of sorts. 

I look forward to sharing my stories with you!

Jamie Sonam Walsh



The Walsh abode, 1987